A Simple Attic LED 18 AWG Lighting Circuit Using Lever Wire Connectors

What is a Lever Wire Connector?

Commoning

3-Port Lever Commoning Connector

WAGO 222-413

$0.50 Qty 250 at Digikey.

Description: SPLICE LEVER 28-12AWG 3POS

3-Port Lever Commoning Connector

WAGO 221-413

$0.51 Qty 250 at Digikey.

Description SPLICE LEVER 24-12AWG 3POS

And what is this?

10-Port Commoning Connector

WAGO 221-420

$1.61 Qty 250 at Digikey.

Description: LEVER-NUTS SPLICING CONNECTOR;1

Pass-Throughs

Let us call an in-line connection of wires always a splice. Know that outside an accessible junction box, an impermanent splice should be forbidden. If unavoidable somehow, let permanence be with soldering and durable sleeving matching the wire insulatiion. 

Lever Splice Connector

WAGO 221-2401

$0.54 Qty ~250 at Digikey.

4-Port Pass-Through lever connector

Parts Express,  Qty 10: $10.98

Quick Lever Wire Nut Splice Inline Wire Connectors with Mounting Tab (4 In 4 Out) 10-Pack 

Think of manageable commoning of wires of shared purpose. Purposes will include a neutral return path, common switched power to devices that will operate in parallel and common ground wires. As an alternative to commoning with twist nuts, lever wire connectors permit insertion without disrupting circuits already built. Every connection is individually manageable.

Think of the word port as the entry path of one wire to a lever commoning. A connector will be named for the number of ports side-by-side, by which wires may be commoned. The alternative of commoning by twist connectors can be very inferior  where bared ends now deformed, resist tidy gathering. Wires of different gage and stiffness, out of sight crowded into nuts, may fail electrical contact, even becoming fire hazards.

Lever wire connectors are offered on Amazon at less than twenty cents each, comparable to simple twist nuts. See that in cost, it should not matter whether connector bodies are transparent. Wish that connectors were packaged in paper boxes. Binned technician tool boxes are the appropriate ready-use storage. Know that anchor clips will be of unusual demand perhaps in violation of building codes addressing accessability, strain relief and device grounding. The tiny screws in variously manufacturer-labeled kits at Amazon just now, are useless, with inappropriate loose-engagement Phillips drive and blunt points that demand pre-drilling. Know that aside from Amazon offers, lever wire connectors are far more expensive.

In my little job now shared, I applied a parallel string of LED lights to overhead 2x framing in a residence attic. Here is a diagram of the circuit:

I wanted thinnest-possible lights, truly surface-mounted without junction boxes. Here are photos at the lever wire connectors:

2-port connectors at L1.

3-port connectors at L2.

4-port connectors at L4.

14/2 Romex power supply down to the light switch and power outlet upon the Safety Pole. Behind the 14/2, see 18/2 switched power leading up to L4 which beams down over the attic ladder opening.

The Safety Pole with 4" deep box, lighted switch and outlet upon the lower hand-hold.

Here is demonstration of 4-port lever wire connectors employment in a RACO 175 deep junction box, for a surace-mounted LED light with a very obstructive mounting plate. Where all wires are 18/2, each lever wire connector in turn is easily extracted for the luminaire connection. The extraction would be almost impossible with 14 gage wires.

My demonstration of better attic lighting happened concurrent with the Spring 2026 Tech Show at my high school, Benson Polytechnic, in Portland, Oregon. I was back as a graduate of the Class of 1962, and was once again dismayed to see antique Career and Technical Education teaching of lights and power wiring in stud walls. I promised the instructor of this wiring, that I would share my experiment in doing better where beyond light switches, modern LED disk lighting demands control and connections innovation. We need to stop imagining efficient and useful light as associated with illegal and dangerous point-source bare bulbs in porcelain lampholders. If building codes and the training of electricians stand in the way, we must smartly resist.

Gross Living Area of A Single-Family Home

 Ask this question:

 Are there consistent rules for measuring home living space for real estate purposes?

Get an AI answer:

While there is no single legally mandated national law for measuring home living space, the real estate industry has moved toward a dominant standard known as ANSI Z765-2021. Adoption of this standard has created much more consistency, especially in professional appraisals for mortgages. [1, 2, 3, 4]

The Primary Industry Standard: ANSI Z765-2021 [1, 2]

Since April 1, 2022, Fannie Mae has required all appraisers to follow the ANSI Z765-2021 standard for single-family homes. This standard provides specific rules to ensure "Gross Living Area" (GLA) is calculated uniformly: [1, 2, 3, 4]

• Exterior Measurement: For single-family detached homes, measurements are taken from the outside of the house. This includes the thickness of the exterior walls in the total square footage.
• Ceiling Height: Living space must have a ceiling height of at least 7 feet. In rooms with sloped ceilings, at least 50% of the room must be 7 feet high, and any area under 5 feet cannot be counted.
• Grade Level (Basements): If any part of a level is below ground level (even partially), the entire level is considered below-grade and typically excluded from the primary GLA figure, though it can be reported separately.
• Finished Status: To count as GLA, a space must be finished (walls, floors, ceilings), contiguous (connected to the main house), and permanently heated. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10]

Common Sources of Discrepancy

Even with a standard in place, you may see different numbers for the same house due to varying purposes for the measurement: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

• Public/Tax Records: Often rely on original building permits or older data that may not include recent (or unpermitted) renovations.

Know that the AI information DOES NOT ALLOW ME TO READ THE ACTUAL YEAR-2021 ANSI STANDARD. There criminally, is a paywall. I can only download and read for-free, a year 2020 draft copy. 

To read the rules, I am expected to pay $25,

https://www.homeinnovation.com/store

Square Footage - Method for Calculating: ANSI Z765-2021

Where reportable living area of my own home has increased by expansion of my kitchen over the existing foundation, I am at liberty to measure and calculate the adjustment by myself. 

See that by means I thought fair, I have updated my reporting of Conditioned Space, to 1081 sf, at the realty resources I have discovered, first at Zillow. The difference from GLA of 1132 sf is fairly to some mid-point within the exterior walls. In fact, conditioned space is only within drywall to the exterior walls, something like 1009 sf. Let us NOT elevate the importance of GLA. Let us lessen dependence on property tax revenue for municipal funding. 

Here is a graphic from the  2/20/2020 Draft version, chosen as typical of the rules:

There is very real intent to count area within walls, including exterior walls. Zillow is a leader in accepting new, larger numbers, with boosted consequences in appraisals and taxation. All subjected to the less-thoughtful process will support another jump of inflation in housing prices and property taxes. If someday the new process is somehow applied to everyone, greed and municipal needs will stand in the way of downward adjustment of tax rates.

In fact there are detailed instructions from Zillow that do not inflate calculated living area. 

https://www.zillow.com/learn/how-to-measure-your-homes-square-footage/

Like most aspects of owning or purchasing a house, measuring the square footage of a home is complicated. There's no established standard for measuring a residential property, and everyone seems to measure square footage of a house differently. But if you get it wrong, it can affect your home's value.

There's no need to be nervous about calculating your home's square footage. We'll show you just how easy it actually is to measure a home’s square footage accurately.

How to calculate square footage

For most people, the gross floor area or gross living area (GLA) of a home is what they’re thinking when they hear “square footage.” Gross living area is the total finished and accessible living space of a home.

Here's how to calculate the square footage of a house:

1. Sketch a floor plan of the home’s interior.

   Draw each floor separately, and don’t include unfinished areas, patios, porches and exterior staircases.

2. Break down the house into measurable rectangles.

   The more rectangles the better. This takes the guesswork out of rooms or hallways that don’t have perfectly flush walls.

3. Measure the length and width of each rectangle.

   Round your measurements off to the nearest 0.5 linear foot. For instance, 13.1 rounded to the nearest 0.5 linear foot is 13.0.

4. Calculate the area of each section.

   Multiply the rectangle’s length by its width to get the area in square feet. Write this number down in the corresponding space on your sketch.

5. Add up the total area.

   Sum up the square feet of each rectangle to measure the total square footage of the house. Round the total off to the nearest square foot.

See that this is not related to the new ANSI procedure. There is absurdity in the round-off instructions for measurement. Measure as accurately as you can, perhaps to the nearest inch for each. Then at the end, round off total area to the nearest square foot.

Do read on at the Zillow link. More details are offered. I have left comment that their instructions are outdated. I hope that Zillow will now act responsibly in challenging the ANSI instructions, avoiding inflationary push.

A Deep Energy Retrofit, Fall of 2013

This post absorbs still-relevant content of withdrawn post Working With Cotton Insulation Batts.  At March, 2026, recycled denim as expensive wall insulation or sound treatment is a dead market. Thick batts for floor insulation are no longer sold anywhere.

Some cotton batts continue to be sold at Home Depot, labeled Henry UltraTouch.  Bags labeled "R13" and "R19" under-fill 2x4 and 2x6 walls. Under-fill is from irregular thickness and extreme difficulty of cutting-to-fit. Odd circumstances are not served by powerfully-stamped perforations. Parting to pass wires is impossible. With my reporting, I seek to discourage all others from thinking that cotton batts are somehow "green."

My experience with cotton batts has relevance now, only as an element in my only experience with a deep energy retrofit. 

A deep-energy retrofit is a comprehensive, whole-building construction process aimed at reducing an existing building’s energy use by at least 40%–50%.

This deep energy retrofit began right, in 2008, with a ground-mounted 3.5 KW PV array. The array safely beautifies and might fully electrify a 2.5 acre farm. It seems that the now-old air-source heat bump needs expensive deep-winter electric resistance heat backup. A good ground source heat pump might now be afforded.

Opportunity advances since 2008 include affordable and reliable battery storage permitting off-grid electricity when the sun is down and time-shifted draw from the grid when that is needed.

Proper weatherization of the home to support this early-adopter heat pump energy independence is to my credit. I hope that the air-source heat pump has never again needed backup of electric resistance heat, and that no grid power has been needed. In this there is increasingly now an additional investment in large battery capacity. I hope to learn soon whether all of my work has been durable, and that net-zero has been attained.

Making Right Out of Fright

So much work in home weatherization is with starting conditions that are beyond challenging.

Falling-down insulation in a crawl space MUST BE REPAIRED. Batts out of contact with flooring have no insulation value.

The work is daunting. I credit the workers, very badly instructed, as being willing horses, like me. 

 

Fixing everything on the main floor, attic and roof took 274 hours in the Fall of 2011.

Here are the many details of these repairs as PDF captioned job photo albums:

Real Sealing Fixes HPwES Sealing In An Oregon Attic

Insulation and Decking

Wrap Ducts, Completion Survey

Microwave Fan Wiring and Duct

LED Light Installations

Roof Penetration For Kitchen Fan

Roof Penetration for Bath Fan

Remove Debris

Here are photos of main floor, attic and roof starting conditions. There was very much air leakage to the attic from conditioned spaces, contributing to foolishness of placing cotton batts under the roof deck. I suggest that a token amount of wasted effort of sealing was accomplished with a few cans of fast-skinning orange spray foam. I call that a "can of foam trick." The ugly foam that was applied sealed almost nothing.

I sealed all air gaps 100% with tough Densarmor drywall and my "flexible grout."

Large attic floor pits exposed first floor walls to attic temperatures. Here, drywall was grouted in the floor about a chimney well.

Sealing involved much work with fans and lights.

Attic photos, work in progress:

Here are achieved conditions in the first floor and attic.

I build inventive factory-quality and safely manageable attic hatches. R21 is more than enough. An attic ladder is far safer and for economy need not be more than R5. An attic ladder even at R10 is far too expensive and gets refused. Here, I coped a lot, managing to stay safe.

To the very end I coped with an R3 leaking and not-insulated attic hatch cover, for my safety with ease of handling.

174 hours of repairs in the crawl space were done in the Fall of 2013.

Here is my PDF job photo album:

CS Insulation Repair and Heat Ducts

The found condition in the crawl space was blocked by a no trespassing indication. It is simply a wrapped 6" warm air duct, that did not need to pass here, as found by the cotton batt installers.

Very heavy cotton batts hung down 6" from floor contact against twine restraint, there was zero insulation value, Brave workers persisted against common sense, and an invoice was paid.  A thorougn new Visqueen ground cover was one simple  lasting contribution.

The found all-steel HVAC supply ducts were left horribly leaking, draped with R19 fiberglass batts. The duct insulation batts added much to a feeling of confinement. The same with R11 batts generally wrapped around copper water pipes.

 See that steel duct fittings, wyes, take-offs and reducers hang from 9" rips of 1/2" plywood. after perfecting co,p;ete coverage with insulating jackets, hoist to jam an eye bolt through a 1" hole in the plywood, and pin with a 5/8" dia length of resilient farm property tree branch,

Intimacy of flex ducts with the overhead plywood rips will discourage mouse habitat, I hope. For persons, see freedom to get around, easily sliding under clean and smooth flex ducts.

CS Batts Repair Method:

Someday, say in 25 years, the flex ducts will need replacement. It will be easy to unpin the steel fittings to place new lengths of clean flex duct. Know that absent replacement, the interior plastic conduit will become brittle and leaking, inviting vermin home invasion.

Consider the energy savings in employing flex ducts vs. solid pipes with wrong assumption of zero leakage either way:

Reduce Energy Waste in Thermal Cycles Of Heat Ducts

An important feature of the new ducting is much-reduced thermal mass exposed to each heating cycle. The mass of steel ducts responding is reduced from 200 pounds, to fifty pounds. 

Compute an energy savings for the reduction of duct thermal mass:

Assumptions:

Crawl space at 200-day heating season average of 50°F.

Average air temperature within ducts in a cycle is 90°F.

Wrapped ducts heat inertia is such that temperatures are followed 50%.

The furnace cycles every half hour, 48 times per day.

The total mass of ducts is reduced from 200 pounds, to fifty pounds.

The temperature change of the total mass of heat ducts is 10°F in each cycle.

The heat consumed in each furnace cycle is:

m * Cp * delta T

where m = 200 pounds mass, or reduced to fifty.

Specific Heat Capacity, Cp = 0.12 BTU/pound/°F

delta T = 10°F

BTU wasted in each cycle: 200 * 0.12 * 10 = 240 BTU

Times 48 cycles

Times 200 days

Result: 2,304,000 BTU per year

Times 0.00001 to convert to therms, is 23.0 therms.

Times $2 per therm is $46 per year.

At fifty pounds, this is reduced to $11.50.

Energy savings now with flexible ducts are $34.50 per year, not counting benefits of real duct insulation. I think wrap of unfaced fiberglass batts loses most of its value with air circulation.

I think this is a fair estimate. Under $50 per year is saved. Even with insulation wrap, the steel components without an interior liner may cycle by more than 10°F. However, the number of days and cycles per day, may be high assumptions for this home.

Please just recognize that lower duct thermal mass is a good deal, comparable to benefits of stopped leakage and of keeping fittings and flexible ducts aligned for least flow resistance. The prospect of much easier replacement of flex ducts terminating at fixed-in-place steel elements makes coping with flex duct failure more bearable. Be happy to have ducts renewed, clean, every 25 years 

Study Details of the Ducts Hanging From Steel Elements

6" Chamfered Straight Take-Off From 12"

Please study my practice of HVAC duct design, and the specific design of the HVAC ducts in this home:  More HVAC Circuitry, In A Crawl Space.